Get our FREE Unisex Boxy T-Shirt Dress sewing pattern

Get our FREE Unisex Boxy T-Shirt Dress sewing pattern

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Who is this sewing pattern intended for?

When creating this pattern, I really tapped into the mindset of myself pre-fashion school. Before all the sewing classes, the degrees, the custom orders, the hundred designs later. This pattern was made by me, for the old me. The one that knew absolutely nothing about sewing. So yes, it is very, very beginner-friendly. 

What kind of fabric should I use?

I highly recommend a cotton jersey in the colour black. Cotton jersey, for those of you who don’t know, is a very common stretch fabric used in everyday clothes like t-shirts. The reason we recommend it is because it doesn’t fray. We’re going to use this to our advantage and leave our hems, cuffs, and neckline unfinished. Now you only have to worry about the really basic stuff. It also drapes nicely over the body, even if the stitching isn’t so great. It basically makes mistakes less obvious. 

Can I use woven, non-stretchy fabric?

it’s worth noting that you can use this pattern for woven fabrics as well. You would just need to finish all cuffs, hems, and other raw edges of fabric. We recommend a simple rolled hem and overlocking where appropriate. This might be a tier above absolute beginner but is still a very simple sewing project. All hems and cuffs have a 4cm allowance. The neckline can be finished with a simple facing piece to be  drafted yourself.

Makes: 1 dress

  • 150cm wide light to mid weight (150-250gsm) Cotton jersey - 2.5 meters
  • 200m 100% cotton thread - 1 spool
  • Fusible stabilizer - ½ meter

MEASUREMENTS & PATTERN LAYOUT

XS

S

M

L

XL

GARMENT WIDTH

48-52cm

52-56cm

56-60cm

60-64cm

64-68cm

GARMENT LENGTH

102-104cm

104-106cm

106-108cm

108-110cm

110-112cm

SLEEVE LENGTH

29-30cm

30-31cm

31-32cm

32-33cm

33-34cm

All measurements are indicative of the garment when finished*

How do I assemble this pattern?

After printing the PDF pattern onto individual A4 sheets of paper, cut away the excess paper on each page indicated by the dotted line. This ensures all pattern information is retained border to border. Now simply tape each page together following the sequence on the chart below. Take care that all circular border notches line up to meet each other.

A1

A2

A3

A4

B1

B2

B3

B4

C1

C2

C3

C4

D1

D2

D3

D4

E1

E2

E3

E4

MACHINE SETUP

Use a ball point needle which is specifically meant for sewing stretch fabric like jersey. You can easily pick these up from your local craft store. Then set your machine to it’s zig-zag stitch with a stitch width of 3 and stitch length of 2. 

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

  1. The very first thing we’ll do is attach the pockets. Take a pocket piece and pin it at the designated notch (see Front/Back pattern) with right sides together. Sew at 1cm allowance and repeat until all 4 pocket pieces have been attached to either front and back pieces. 
  2. Now flip the pocket pieces away from the bodice and topstitch at 0.5cm allowance. This will keep your pocket from easily falling inside out when you wear the dress later.
  3. Now pin the front and back bodice pieces together at the side seams with right sides together, making sure that all notches line up to meet each other. Sew at 1cm allowance.
  4. At this point, it would be optimal to tack your pocket bags to the front of your dress. Just use a zig-zag stitch and sew until you meet the pocket bag notch.
  5. Sew the center back seam with right sides together at 1cm allowance
  6. Pin the front and back pieces at the shoulder seams right sides together then sew at 1cm allowance.
  7. Finally, we’re going to fuse the stabilizer onto the wrong sides of our facing pieces. Then sew the short ends together at 1cm allowance. 
  8. Pin the neck facing to the neckhole, with right sides together and sew at 1cm allowance. 
  9. Understitch the neck facing for a neat and professional finish. At this point, it’s also appropriate to finish and cuffs, hems, and raw edges if you’ve elected to use a fraying fabric like your wovens. Otherwise, leave your hems raw for an ultra-cool deconstructed look.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

PRE-WASH:

After sewing for nearly a decade, I find it highly advantageous to pre-wash your fabric after purchase from the store. Do 1-3 cycles in the wash and dryer, with your typical laundry liquid. This washes off any dye that might bleed to the rest of your clothes, but also (and most importantly) it eliminates any shrink that your fabric might naturally have. Skipping this step means you might end up with a beautifully sewn garment that will shrink in the wash by 1-3 sizes, therefore no longer being wearable. 

DRESS LENGTH:

This dress was originally planned to finish below the knee. Letting the dress finish at the shin or above knee will throw off the proportions, resulting in a weird look. Take up or add to the hem in 5 cm increments or as you see fit.